| Everyone agrees that Mt Kenya Safari Club Nanyuki is
an exclusive retreat. Situated some one hundred and ninety kilometres
north of Nairobi, on the slopes of Mt Kenya, it has a reputation for
relaxed elegance. Many of the world’s most famous names, be they royalty,
film stars or merely the rich, seek it out as a secluded haven where,
although you don your safari gear during the day, you always dress
for dinner. Sir Winston Churchill was reputed to have been a founder
Member. The list of those who joined after the Club opened in 1959
reads like an international “Who’s Who”, and includes Prince Berhard
of the Netherlands, Lord Louis Mountbatten, author Robert Ruark, former
US President Lyndon Johnson, Conrad Hilton, Bob Hope, Bing Crosby,
and a bevy of celebrities.
The Club’s allure has never faded. Contemporary Members have included
His Royal Highness the Aga Khan, President El Haj Omar Bongo of
Gabon, President Gafaar Numeiri of the Sudan, Members of the Saudi
Arabian Royal family, KRH Prince Mohammad Bin Fahd Bin Abdul Aziz
and Mrs. Anwar Sadat… A highlight has been President Daniel Arap
Moi’s acceptance of membership, which has accorded the Club Kenya’s
seal of approval.
Countless people will vouch that the Club’s exclusive tone has been
maintained, but if word of mouth is not sufficient, the Club’s reputation
was reaffirmed recently when it was given the prestigious World
Star Award by the United States. Thus the Mt Kenya Safari Club Nanyuki
ranks equal to hotels of longstanding classic quality such as Hong
Kong’s Mandarin, the Negresco in Nice, the romantic Gritti Palace
in Venice and Zurich’s stately Dolder Grand.
At the Mt Kenya Safari Club, the normal leisurely tempo of a holiday
can be changed dramatically with trout fishing, game watching and
mountain climbing. The Club’s staff has been primed to lay it all
on for anyone who feels the need to punctuate lazy days by the pool
with activities of all descriptions. A regular scheduled, thirty-minute
flight links the Club to the city, and also to the range of other
air excursions offered to any point of interest in Kenya. Like many
of East Africa’s pre-war dreams the then “Mawingo” and now known
to us Mt Kenya Safari Club was born of a love affair, and one that
had all the ingredients of an epic Romance, a handsome older woman,
a dashing aviator and, for their playground, all of Africa. However,
what gave the creation of “Mawingo” its sparkle was the unlikeness
that almost typical of the spontaneous, champagne years that gave
the Kenya of the 1930s its notoriety.
Rhoda Lewinsohn was married to a millionaire financier from New
York. She had everything: a philanthropic husband of good social
standing and two grown-up daughters, but also a rare ability to
enjoy life to the fullest. Evidence of this “joie de vivre” is threaded
throughout her story from the moment she left her family in the
United States to holiday in Kenya. Although in her fifties, Rhoda
was a stunningly attractive woman, as sleek as a thoroughbred racehorse,
and with the same dynamic energy. Perhaps it was these qualities
that attracted Gabriel Prudhomme to her. He was much younger than
she, an adventurous French bachelor who had his own airplane, and
was a keen hunter of big game. When he took Rhoda and her friends
on safari, not only did Rhoda shoot her first elephant, she also
fell madly in love. Gabriel pressed his suit and very soon Rhoda,
the Manhattan Matron, had discarded her husband and her US citizenship.
The couple was married in Paris before returning to Kenya to live
at Njoro among the Happy Valley set.
Years later, as a widow in her eighties with swept back blonde
hair and an unlined face, Rhoda would show photos to her friends
who came to tea at her home in Santa Barbara, California. The pictures
were foxed with age, but you could still see the figures in comical
long dresses and baggy shorts, arms linked and laughing on the lawn,
or proudly standing with gun in hand next to a trophy lion. She
referred to them all by their first names, and spoke of them in
the present tense as though they were still around. The Duke and
Duchess of Norfolk… Indian Erroll and her husband Joss who, later,
was to be shot mysteriously in his car one night – a murder that
was never solved.
Rhoda and Gabriel were anxious to build their own home and had
chosen as a setting an enchanting expanse of forest and field at
the foot of Mt Kenya near Nanyuki. The property, however, was not
for sale. It belonged to a Mrs. Wheeler from San Francisco who had
also fallen in love with the same environment and wanted to build
a house of her own, … but a strange quirk of fate was to change
everything. Mrs. Wheeler’s fianc? died suddenly while abroad. Grief
stricken, she told Gabriel she would sell the land if he would fly
to France, have the body cremated, and bring the ashes back to Kenya.
Gabriel agreed willingly, and later flew Mrs. Wheeler high over
Mt Kenya and scattered her lover’s remains over the mountain.
The Prudhomme started to build immediately and completed the house
in a year. Photographs show Indian labourers busy working on bamboo
scaffolding. Unlike other Kenyan houses of that time, where guest
cottages were added on haphazardly to accommodate a growing number
of friends, relations and children, Rhoda insisted on one large
building. She said that she wanted everyone under one roof because
it got so muddy during the rains. It was Rhoda who gave the house
the name “Mawingo”, the Kiswahili name for “the clouds” that so
often skirt the slopes of Mt Kenya. There have, of course, been
changes since then, but Club connoisseurs can still recognize the
original building, which extended to where the Trophy Lounge is
today. The relaxed and sophisticated atmosphere is probably much
the same as it ever was and even in the early days there was an
abundance of tropical shrubs, a small lake and small orphanage of
Antelope and Cheetah. The Prudhomme Mt Kenya idyll lasted just a
year before the onset of World War II shattered it in 1939, when
Rhoda returned to New York. Tragedy ensued. Having fought for the
Free French in Algeria, Gabriel flew to the United States to rejoin
Rhoda but, without the sparkling air of the Kenyan highlands to
nourish it, their relationship soured.
Rhoda divorced Gabriel and thus lost both husband and home, for
she had given “Mawingo” to him as a present. When he died, shortly
after the war, his intention had been to return it to her, since
in his own words, “...she was the only woman I ever loved”. He had,
however, forgotten to sign his will so the house went to his family,
who were, alas, never able to enjoy Mawingo. During the war, the
family home in France was occupied and Gabriel’s family was forced
to live in their unheated attic. They both died of pneumonia.
Mawingo was bought in 1948 by Abraham Block, who extended the house
and turned it into an Inn. In 1959 the film star William Holden
stayed there with his friends Ray Ryan and Carl Hirschmann, the
latter a Swiss Banker. They were in the middle of a shooting safari,
and Ray Ryan needed to recuperate, having sustained a cut eye from
a gun recoil. All three men succumbed to Mawingo’s charm. They bought
the property and turned it into one of the most unusual and exclusive
Clubs in the world. “The Mt Kenya Safari Club”. It has blossomed
over the years with each new addition – luxurious cottages with
sunken baths, a golf course, tennis courts, swimming pool, sauna
and side by side to William Holden’s favourite project – a 1000
acre game reserve stocked with more than 800 wild animals. Following
his death, it has now become the William Holden Foundation.
The rich and famous still retreat to the Club for relaxation. Catherine
Deneuve, Liv Ullman, Stefanie Powers, Ali McGraw, author James Clavell,
film producer David Lean and footballer Joe Montana have all signed
the guest book. Those who have stayed there will understand Rhoda’s
assertion to a friend in California, some 30 years after her marriage
to Gabriel had been dissolved “… those were the happiest years of
my life. There are no regrets…”
There is no doubt that the historical background of Mt Kenya Safari
Club reads like a fairy tale. The only difference is that in this
case, the fairy tale happens to be a true story, which drawn upon
the feelings of almost everyone who hears about it and realizes
that such a place does exist.
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